During LC:M SS16 I had the absolute pleasure of taking part to the KTZ menswear show. Held in an underground venue in Southwark, the show was one of my favourite ones this season and it inspired me to write a report on it for Idol Magazine.
Location, location, location – these days the well known mantra of all real estate agents finds its declination in the world of fashion too. Showcasing a collection in a particular space can contribute to better represent the message that the designer instilled in their work – and makes taking that car/bus/train and find out that unique space well worth it! This season it was absolutely worth the journey for the KTZ SS16 show.
Citing artist Chris Burden’s Metropolis II – a complex kinetic sculpture modelled after a modern city, which took the artist four years to build – Creative Director Marjan Pejoski and Set Designer Philip Cooper created a futuristic space permeated by light. The catwalk, built inside of Pulse club in Southbank, was a labyrinth of tall barriers with neon lights hanging at their sides. One-row long continuous benches were alternated to the metallic structure all the way along the room. The rough architectural surrounding, with its massive columns and brick archway, was hidden by the complex structure – made to catch the spectator’s attention right away – but at the same time revealed by the strong illumination and the reflections of light in the mirrors, which were also hanging on to the barriers.
Futuristic would be an understatement, just as ‘exciting’ wouldn’t fully explain the feeling of expectation that pervaded the room before the beginning of the show.
For their SS16 collection, KTZ began with the concept of endless possibilities and the desire of portraying that moment in time when one can invent their own character. Being whatever one wants to be and wearing whatever one fancies gave the designer the chance of interweaving various elements in one, adventurous ensemble. Recycling became reinventing in the attempt to make one man’s trash into another man’s treasure, through the use of unusual industrial materials such as paper, cardboard, rubber, plastic, aluminium, nylon and electrical tape.
The concept was brilliant, the design innovative and permeated with that extra something which is KTZ’s signature and the reason for their strong cult community. A significant part in reflecting the collection’s vibe, then, was played by the location. That feeling of distance given by the metallic barriers, the unexpected direction taken by the models while walking down the runway, the coldness of the metal and the warmth of the bricks. Everything contributed to transport the audience in a different dimension for the whole duration of the show.
Future is the goal, but KTZ chose to interpret the needs of tomorrow’s customers through the core idea of reinvention, communicating freedom of choice at the same time. Wearing paper or making a dramatic cloak out of an old parachute, the fashionistas of tomorrow will choose among a range of revisited possibilities and reinvent for themselves what used to be another man’s treasure.
KTZ proved to us that reinvention can be extremely unique and that being in the right location could make rubber and paper look like they’ve never looked before.
Photography by Chloe Le Drezen
Read the full article and view more images on IDOL Magazine.